Day 13 - Burley to Pocatello

The side roads along the highway start and stop - no direct Old Oregon Trail to Pocatello. I am thinking of jumping on and off I-84 / I-86, but have 80+ miles to cover and want to get to Pocatello at a reasonable time due to upcoming mountains and heat.

Jump on the highway and ride !!!

Great conversation with a couple from Bay Area on a camping trip with a big rig.

Their 5 year plan is to be retired, and rent out their house for part of each year. They get to travel, and their now-23 year old son will have to move out and get his own place when they rent !!!

They said they passed another thru-bicyclist 30 minutes earlier. I'm at the rest stop for 30+ minutes but do see him. Except for the Ride America group I still have not yet coma across another thru-rider. Surprised.

Only have a few pictures. Clear to see why there are no side-roads to follow. Desolation Row; sunny; hot.

Stop in American Falls, have a pastry and drink in a Mexican bakery; their pastry has much less sugar. It's good.

Enter the Fort Hall Reservation on the highway; evidently I will ride thru it for a while tomorrow morning - should be interesting.

Been looking forward to Pocatello - 50,000 + people; Idaho State Univ: direct commerce path to Salt Lake area; Om semiconductor facility.

Disappointed. Downtown not very vibrant, though I find a Harvest Bread for a break; very big train yard; very big sprawl area on outskirts of town bordering the Interstate highways.

Clearly I am a really big downtown afficiando. They're disappearing. John Mellencamp was right.

For any respectable food tonight I need to walk along sprawl row to the mall area.

One more day before Teton Pass day; looking forward to a stop in Idaho Falls, noon-ish tomorrow.

Day 12 - Twin Falls to Burley

After I posted in TF it struck me that their "Church Street" is similar to Burlington's in many ways. Two differences:
1. Not as vibrant as ours commercially
2. Nicer layout with many trees, sitting areas, and meandering curbing. BTV could improve ours by adopting some of their layout ideas.

Deja Vu -
Can't believe that I forget to post about being attacked by a really big bird. It was during my 'down day' to Baker City.

I had noticed that as I rode by clumps of trees close along the road that birds would noisily fly out of the trees. In retrospect I am guessing that they had babies to protect.

After riding by one clump of trees a really big bird came full force from behind and struck me on the head. I had to do a quick correction to avoid crashing. Saw it fly away - maybe a crow or raven.

Thought of it today when a hawk took off from an electric pole and flew along side me making a loud, piercing sound. I started waving an arm frantically to keep him away. Who'd have thought !!

A number of wind mill farms along today's route, which was full of acre after acre of hay, alfalfa, corn, and now some vegetables.

Route 30 - Old Oregon Trail - the entire way.

See the picture of the burning hay - that was a surprise.

Burley hosts the Spudman Triathlon, and I saw a McCain's factory - but I don't recall seeing any potato fields.

Burley also has a Mormon temple, and many influential members of the "Second Quorum of the Seventy". Close to Utah here. The hotel clerk has been to Sharon, VT. Relatives? Skiing? Nope - visiting Joseph Smith's birthplace.

All the hotels are out on the strip by the highway - so no good hanging out downtown.

Day 11 - Glenns Ferry to Twin Falls

Different kind of day today.

Had breakfast at a diner in town - with the local guys. Left at 8:00; feeling a little tired after yesterday's long ride.

And the terrain changes.

GF to Hagerman is pretty similar to the last few days in OR and ID. Hagerman, however, has a different feel to it. Seems prosperous and many small communities along the tree-covered shores of the Snake River. More of a tourist area feel.

I climb a loooong and steep hill on the way up to Buhl, and as I reach the top of the plateau I am on a dairy metropolis; very big farms. The folks in Buhl say that thousand cow dairies are common. No pics since it is nothing new or extraordinary. Great milk shake; great coffee shop in Buhl.

As usual, the run from Buhl into Twin Falls, pop 44,000, is as expected. Sprawl city, and am disappointed about the litter on the side of the road - unlike the many small towns I've been thru that are very clean.

Visit the bike shop to talk routes to Teton Pass, and revise stops based on info. Also am told about the street festival in Twin Falls tonight - so taxi back into the City Center for dinner, farmers market, and live band. Lots of people and families with their lawn chairs all over Main Street - could have been a night on Church Street. Felt good. There was a contingent of developmentally disabled folks downtown for the street fair, and wouldn't you know that they were the only ones up and dancing, and really enjoying themselves.

I'm feeling that I am in the final stages of preparation for the two Pass days - Teton on Sunday; Togwotee on Tuesday. Yikes !!!

Day 10 B - Boise to Glenn's Ferry

Back over the Summit I take no chances and follow Hwy 21 back to I-84 / 20 / 30 intersection.

Had not planned on getting back on I-84 again, but I'm 2 1/2 hours behind my planned schedule. So I jump on the on-ramp and cruise the 40 miles to Mountain Home in just over 2 hours; feel strong and have a great tailwind. No pics on this segment.

Stop in Mountain Home to assess my prospects of getting to Glenns Ferry.

What a difference a milk shake makes. After discussing routes with Linda at the ice cream store I head down the Old Oregon Trail back road.

Good decision. Hay fields multiple miles long; mesas across the Snake River; looooong trains. And pretty flat.

Thru Hammett and into Glenn's Ferry.

110 miles! We'll see what tomorrow brings. Planning back roads to Twin Falls - 66 miles, hilly, and a 5 MPH headwind predicted.

I'm thinking leave a little later and practice the tortoise thing for Teton Pass.

Not giving up on the exploratory approach. The Summit was fabulous, and the Mt Home to GF ride was worth the memories.

Check out the pen / soap comparison. For 38.00 bucks I guess I can't complain.

Day 10 A - Boise over Highland Summit

Didn't plan it this way - the directions out of Boise were very confusing and I ended up taking a right when I should have taken a left. So I went over Highland Valley Summit - climb almost 2000 feet in 2 miles and scream down the other side - maybe 4 miles into the valley. Something feels wrong. And I can't find any route signs

I stop and talk to a guy pulling out of his driveway - and after a discouraging conversation I realize that continuing means triple mileage and over Sun Valley. Not !

So I turn around and head back up over Highland Summit.

The error cost me about 30 miles and two steep climbs - chalk it up to Teton Pass practice - and a few nice photos.

Day 9 - Payette to Boise

Quite a straightforward day - on the road about 7:00 - flat ride to Emmett - turn South on Hwy 16 and head to Boise.

Very slightly uphill to Emmitt, and below a picture of the road grade up and over the Payette Valley - over Freezeout Hill.

Once out of the Valley it is an easy run to Boise - missing the remote roads as I cruise past strip mall haven - first thru Eagle and then into Boise.

Boise is nice - seems like a real outdoorsy city. Not sure how to spend a rest day here without a car - so I'll move on down the road tomorrow to Glenn's Ferry.

Checking on directions in Emmitt I meet Cathy Ballard, whose family is from
St J.; at dinner in Boise I sit next to a couple from Hinesburg who are on their way to a 2 week rafting trip on the Snake River.

Small world. How did Cathy know I was from Boston?? I know I lost that accent years ago.

Day 8 - Baker City to Payette, ID

Pretty rural place - I'm sitting outside Joe's Club trying to pick up some Internet service. Motel - no; restaurant - no; elementary school - no. This may not Post tonight.

Out of Baker City early; 11 very gradual miles uphill out of the valley, and the I-84 / Hwy 30 to Durkee - almost deserted, but ranches in the surrounding valley.

Gary Bloomer stops his pick-up as I'm taking a picture - and we talk for 30 minutes. He owns 6,000 acres. Pastures one cow per 50 acres !! Gary gives me his cell number and says to call him if I have any problems - anywhere from here to Boise.

Next stop Huntington - just a tad bit more lively. Nice conversation with store owner.

Beautiful riding thru high desert. One valley barren and covered with sagebrush; turn the corner and see a verdant, lush green irrigated valley. Took some videos - really desolate and spectacular.

Change route - into Payette, ID instead of Ontario, OR. Gets me off the I-84 / Hwy 30 path onto rural 201 to Idaho.

Big difference between yesterday and today; back into enjoyment of riding.

Today:
- Sayonara I-84
- Out of Oregon; into Idaho
- Into second week of riding
- Over 500 mile barrier
- Out of PST; into MST

Back roads from Payette to Boise Monday. Rest day Tuesday And then head to Grand Tetons !!

One motel in Payette; not quite sure it's worth the 39 bucks !

Day 7 - Union to Baker City

Slept in this morning. 7 days on the saddle, and I am feeling a little tired after the climb over Blue Mountain.

I leave Mark and Judy Wing's about 8:15. Climb out of La Grande valley to Powder River and jump on Hwy 30 ( Old Oregon Trail) heading to Baker City.

Tired legs; weather prediction for 15 MPH headwinds out of South, and thunderstorms starting at 10:00. Perfect storm for a no-energy day.

As soon as I leave the bountiful La Grande valley (15,000 acres of mint !!)I ride for 10 miles thru nothing but sage brush and hills with windmills. How can the landscape change so quickly?

Hit the headwinds as I turn on to Hwy 30. Ugh. Have trouble finding my rhythm. No way I could have made it halfway to Ontario, OR.

After talking with Dave, a local, at the ice cream shop at noon, I run into he and Curt at the dinner restaurant. Great discussion; Dave surprises me by paying for my dinner; I'm feeling better about getting into a groove and slowly stroking thru the 15 MPH headwinds on Sunday.

Also met three riders from Ride America. There is 54 of them - Astoria to Portsmouth, NH. Scheduled to arrive the day before me. We share some destinations along the way.

They, however, seem to be flying. Sag wagon; mechanic; nothing on their bikes but a water bottle. I won't be riding with them.

I think I prefer the route-alteration; local connection; Warmshowers option rather than pinning a set of defined route descriptions on my handlebars.

If I was on that tour I would have missed Elaine, the Wings, Curt and Dave, and Linda and her family in Hermiston - all priceless.

Pics:
- 45th parallel, some 100 miles south of Washington state border ???
- Haines downtown - and not one car in sight - on Saturday morning
- Parade in Baker City - a traveling circus troupe
- Sagebrush for miles !!!

Off to Payette, ID on Sunday morning. 90 miles with one campground as the only rest stop, at 40 miles. Focus and easy rhythm necessary !!

Day 6 - Pendleton to Union

Life really is like a box of chocolates !!

Out of Pendleton about 6:15 in dreaded fear that the Blue Mountains would devour me. Left early because I was fearful that I would arrive in La Grande after the streets were rolled up.

At the very last second I decide to ride the I-84 / I-30 route. It's the steepest climb but a few miles shorter than the back roads. Truck traffic not really an issue since they were geared down with flashers blinking and engines straining.

To cut to the chase here, I was sitting at the counter in the ice cream shop having my ritualistic milk shake at 12:45, having rolled into La Grande at 12:30. And no tremor or cramps in the legs !!

The climb was really tough, but got off highway at Emigrant Springs and rode old I-30 to Meacham for breakfast. Try to find that on your map. Very cool experience in this really remote town atop the Blue Mountains. Great conversation with the owners and patrons.

What to do in La Grande at 1:00?? I called a Warmshowers host who is 15 miles down the road, and then headed her way.

What a great decision. Judy and Mark, retired, raising some beef and sheep; 4 kids, one of whom did her Residency at FAHC; had been to North Hero when visiting their daughter in BTV.

Visited on the patio with Judy, Mark and their son and his family; did my laundry; borrowed their car to go into town for provisions and dinner. And now retired to my "bunk house".

Quandary - 3 days planned to Boise; could do it in 2 ( cutting a day ???), but no place to stay in between; may have to sleep in on Saturday and do just 30 miles to Baker City and stay on schedule.

Pics:
- Dead Man Pass in Blue Mountains
- Diner in Meacham
- Out of desert to pine forest
- Settling in at Union, OR

Day 5 - Kennewick to Pendleton

Milestone: out of Washington; into Oregon.

Day started with a 6.7 mile uphill with the most glorious views. I hope I remember them forever. Climbed out of the tri-cities valley, and then did a 11.7 mile drop to the Columbia River.

Rolling hills and wheat fields as far as the eye can see. And houses being built on the highest peaks. Except for 3 miles on road-repair gravel it was a really smooth paved road. Breathtaking.

At the Umatilla River campground, where I stopped to confirm directions, the office manager said that 2 campers from Vermont had checked out this morning.

Over the Columbia on Route 395. Big trucks; 70 MPH; 18 inch bike lane. I made it.

At a restaurant in Hermiston, OR, was very warmly received by the owner couple, and the wife's mother and daughter. They spent a lot of time researching routes over the Blue Mountains for me, and shared their phone numbers and e-mail addresses to keep in touch. Great people.

Based on their suggestion I did the Reith Road to Pendelton. 24 miles of total remoteness; passed perhaps 6 vehicles. Great rock outcroppings; rolling wheat fields as far as I can see; along the Umatilla River. My phone camera was not working - missed some great shots. Very hot - sapping my energy.

Pendleton is a "real" cowboy town. Lots of cowboy boots; saddle and western- wear shops; saloons; great restaurants downtown.

Very anxious about tomorrow. Pendleton to La Grande; locals say it is tougher than crossing the Rockies. In some places it is 10 miles at a 7+ % grade.

Gear down and bring on the tortoise !!

What a day of variety - ups and downs, very high desert; river valley; cross Columbia (while praying!). Whew !!!